I blog, hair forum and social media hop weekly and it amazes me the number of times I see protein recommended to a struggling head. If I had a dollar for each time it was suggested, I’d be filthy rich! I truly believe every newbie should be made to study and understand all aspects of protein as a pre-requisite to starting a healthy hair journey (HHJ). Understanding the characteristics and proper implementation of protein is very critical to HHJ success, be it natural or relaxed. The absence of this knowledge can lead to a path of breakage, frustration and worst of all, setback.
My name is Jay and this is my story….
2010: When I first entered my healthy hair journey, I was easily influenced by healthy hair enthusiast recommendations — use protein! use protein! use protein! So what did I do? Yep, you guessed it, I used protein — I used Aphogee 2 Step deep into a stretch and protein overloaded something serious. Needless to say, I used little to no protein for the remainder of the year and NEVER used Aphogee 2 Step again.
2011: This year marked a new year and new approach although I could not get my breakage under control. My hair was dry and experiencing all sorts of issues. I reached out to hair forums and blogs for support and was told — use protein! relaxed hair needs protein! use a protein leave-in, your hair will love it! Those recommendations didn’t cure the issues and breakage continued to plague me for most of that year.
2012: I continued to struggle with understanding protein(s) to achieve moisture/protein balance. I did, however, come to have a better understanding of how various proteins work after reading The Science of Black Hair Care. Although I had a better grasp on proteins, my decision making didn’t improve. I opted to use a weekly reconstructor because I was totally brainwashed to believe our hair (especially relaxed hair) requires protein to thrive. Of course this did not work for my hair and of course breakage continued. Sometime during the course of the year, I had an a-ha moment and realized my hair is low porosity hair and low porosity hair is protein sensitive. All this time I was chasing protein when in fact my hair needed moisture, moisture, moisture — not protein like everyone recommended.
2013 to present: I’m now using protein on an as-needed basis rather than scheduling protein treatments. I use protein once or maybe even twice during a 10 week stretch period. Most would argue relaxed hair REQUIRES protein frequently (some even believe weekly) to flourish. While this may be true for some, it’s definitely not true for me. Having an understanding of what my hair requires enables me to make the right decision(s) for my hair.
The takeaway to this is: stay away from groupthink and random recommendations. Almost every article or hair forum response prescribes protein as the remedy for breaking hair. Don’t make the mistake(s) I made! Just because everyone else is doing it, doesn’t mean that you can or should. Do what works for your hair and just know, protein isn’t the cure for every type of breakage that you experience.
Ms. Rosie says
July 23, 2014 at 2:14 amThis article is so on point. When I was relaxed, my hair didn’t like a lot of protein. Every 1-2 months was sufficient. There are a number of things that can cause breakage e.g., product build up, mineral build up, need for a trim, lack of moisture, etc.
Divachyk says
July 23, 2014 at 6:41 amAgreed but many quickly suggest protein but that’s not always the case.
SchelySchel says
July 23, 2014 at 6:21 pmI also read the book The Science of Black Hair Care & learned to do a wet strand test during my weekly wash sessions to help me determine what my hair needs. I recommend this book to everyone! It is very informative!
Divachyk says
July 24, 2014 at 9:21 pmI love that book and have referred to it several times since reading it cover to cover. I stopped doing the wet strand test because my hair reads one thing when it needs another. The best thing for me has been to leave the protein alone and use infrequently.
Tiki says
July 24, 2014 at 12:08 amYou said a mouthful. Do you know how much breakage I caused by adding protein. It is so important to get to know your hair. Now, if only I could get around to recording that how to…strand test. *hangs head in shame*
Divachyk says
July 24, 2014 at 9:23 pmYesssss, gosh yes — me too! Go ahead and knock out that video.
Christal says
July 24, 2014 at 3:00 pmThank you, thank you, thank you for creating this website. No Doubt Jesus led me to your site!!!I have a 5 year who has had a texturizer for two years. Everything was great until her stylist was no longer available. Her has been under processed and over processed causing severe breakage. I have struggled with finding the right products to keep her hair moisturized. Well thanks to you, I now know why, low porosity!!! Trusting others to care for her hair has been disastrous so I will be taking the reins from here. I will be getting the products you have recommended and following your wash day regimens.
Unfortunately, the last texturizer took out her hair line around her face. It has begun to grow back but I am concerned about her next texturizer making it worse. Do you have any suggestions???
Divachyk says
July 24, 2014 at 9:35 pmHi Christal, thank you so much for stopping by and showing me love. Your daughter is 5 years old, right? Are you willing to transition her out of the texturizer to allow her hair time to recover & grow back in healthy?
Christal says
July 25, 2014 at 1:30 pmYes she’s the big 5ive!
That would be ideal, but her hair is JUST NOT manageable (for me) without chemicals. I comb out one section and when I return, it is literally like I’d never touched it and certainly not thoroughly combed it out. Prior to the texturizer, combing her hair was a painful and frustrating event for us both!!! It is extremely thick and coarse.
However, if you know of anyway to make the transition less painful and more manageable, I am willing to try.
Divachyk says
July 25, 2014 at 10:13 pmHi Christal, I had several thoughts in mind on how best to handle her natural hair should you transition her. However, I’m without child, thus I reached out to a healthy hair enthusiast friend to double check my thinking, hope you don’t mind. My friend has 2 daughters, both of which have thick hair. She washes and conditions (with steam) their hair in 2 strand twists which keep the hair relatively detangled. Otherwise, she blow dries then flat irons it for manageability. To date, she doesn’t find her methods damaging. My suggestions were along the same lines as my friend: wash her hair in the manner naturals wash their hair — in braids, ponytails or twists. This keeps the hair stretched and detangled.
Regarding transitioning — transitioning is easy for some and tough for others. It really depends on the skill of the person to be able to deal with varying hair textures and whatever wash day brings to the table. Your daughter’s hair may be easier to transition than most because of her age. You could transition her by keeping her hair in ponies or braids. Kiddos can get by with those hair styles without any issue. Adults, not so much! We have to transition with other strategies like buns, braids, twists or even wigs….that is, if we cannot manage or choose not to manage the varying textures.
Her edges need some TLC. I really feel keeping chemical off of it is the right way to go. You don’t want to risk damaging her follicles permanenatly. If by chance you are wanting to continue with the chemical, I say keep the chemical off of her nape/edges and apply the chemical to the other areas only. I don’t relax my edges/nape at every touch up. These areas have fine hairs and can do without chemicals for an extended period.
Hope that helps.
Alana J. says
July 27, 2014 at 10:02 amYou are so absolutely right and you just reminded me that once I got over my protein overload, I avoided most protein for a while and it helped! I’m thinking I need to go back to what was working.
Christal says
July 30, 2014 at 9:27 amDivachyk,
These are great ideas that I will certainly utilize in the coming months. I appreciate your efforts in getting information and suggestions for my angel. Thank you again and I will keep you posted on our progress!!!
Blessings,
Christal
Divachyk says
July 30, 2014 at 9:27 pmHi Christal, you’re so very welcome. Please do keep me posted as I’m sincerely interested in your little princess’ progression. Blessings to you both.
nerline says
September 13, 2014 at 10:39 amI love this post, Jay. My hair was breaking a lot too. It took me a while to realize that protein was the problem. My daughter is allergic to eggs. All her hair fell off when she was a baby because I was eating eggs and breastfeeding her. Once she got diagnosed, we kept her away from all kind of protein, including wheat protein because she is also allergic to wheat and fish. She is 5 now and her hair is very long. I was washing her hair when it dawned on me that she never had a protein treatment once in her life, and her hair is that long. I quickly understood that my 4c hair, just like hers, only needed moisture, not a protein treatment every two weeks to thrive.
Jay (Divachyk) of RT says
September 13, 2014 at 6:00 pmHi Nerline! Although my hair has done relatively well with recent protein treatments, I still stand by this article that protein doesn’t remedy all breakage. There are so many other factors to consider.
I’m sorry to hear your daughter’s hair came out early on but I’m glad you were able to detect the issue and grow her hair long thereafter. Her story is proof, protein is not required!