I recently got a touch-up but it did not go quite so well. I experienced severe relaxed hair breakage and thinning.
Hair Relaxer System Used
I am salon relaxed with Design Essentials Regular and typically allow my stylist to handle all of my hair care needs on the day of my relaxer. I am not salon dependent for any other services.
Something is Wrong But What?
Over the past year, I’ve grown concerned about the health of my hair. My scalp is itchy and dry post relaxer which never use to happen. And, I’ve also noticed an increase in breakage post-relaxer. Clearly, there is something wrong here but what?
Salon Day Is Here; Let’s Change Things Up
My stylist uses a protein treatment post-relaxer but never uses a deep conditioner. Given, we know a moisturizing deep conditioner is needed to offset the strengthening effects of a protein treatment, I felt this was part to blame for my issues. In addition, her detangling techniques are questionable. Therefore, I chose something a little different on this visit. I let her do my relaxer touch-up and neutralize my hair. However, I planned to finish the rest at home which would include deep condition and style.
My Hair Was Severely Tangled
After neutralizing was complete, I generously applied deep conditioner to my hair to hold me over until I could get home. As I was applying the deep conditioner, I felt tangles upon tangles which concerned me greatly. However, I knew I could detangle gentler than she so I stuck to my original plan of performing the rest of the regimen at home.
Why I Suffered Relaxed Hair Breakage and Thinning
Upon arriving home, I finger detangled to separate some of the tangles. I noticed a lot of hair fall but I chalked it up to shedding. Although my stylist neutralized my hair, I opted to do it again for safekeeping. I then co-washed to add moisture back into my hair. I applied my deep conditioner and steamed my hair for 30 minutes. After applying my leave-ins, I gently combed my hair to start detangling and yet more hair came out. I was becoming worried at this point. By the end of the detangling session, I felt I was at a setback. See for yourself.
My Hair is Fully Dry and It’s Still Breaking
After my hair was completely dry and detangled, it was still breaking. I was really concerned at this point and questioning my decision to skip the mid protein step. Therefore, I used a protein treatment and then deep conditioned my hair. At this point, breakage slowed down tremendously. Finally!
Never Skip the Mid-Step Protein Treatment!
You will notice I skipped the mid-step protein originally. The reason? Well, I thought I had this all figured out. You see, I consulted with a stylist on one of the hair forums I frequent before my actual touch-up appointment. I explained my hair is protein overloaded after each touch-up even with performing my own deep conditioning sessions at home. She advised mid-step protein is not necessary for everyone and seeing how I get protein overloaded easy, I could likely skip this step. This would give my hair time to keratinize (strengthen) on its own without suffering protein overload.
What I failed to understand is protein is not required if the relaxer is of the right strength and does not weaken the hair to breakage. Protein is required to provide artificial strength when the relaxer is too strong and weakens the hair. Therefore, my hair required protein to avoid the relaxed hair breakage and thinning experienced this touch-up period.

Don’t make the same mistakes that I did! If your relaxers are not going right, speak up to your stylist. While some may be able to skip the mid-step protein, I wasn’t and consider that a huge mistake.
Here’s a little throwback footage when times were a little better with my hair.
Products Used
Below is a list of products that I used while finishing my regimen at home:
- Aubrey Organics White Camellia – conditioner applied at the salon
- Elucence Moisture Benefits Shampoo – neutralizing shampoo
- HairVeda Red Tea Conditioner – cowash conditioner
- Aubrey Organics Honey Suckle Rose – deep conditioner
- Aubrey Organics GPB
– protein treatment
- PuraBody Naturals MuruMuru Moisture Milk – leave in conditioner
Update
I stopped using Design Essentials Regular as it started becoming too strong for my hair and I continued having relaxed hair breakage and thinning. I also changed salons and my current stylist is using Naked by Essations.
Your throwback pictures is nice, but don’t be too hard on yourself this is only a minor set back. Your hair is really beautiful!
Thank you Tonkabelle! 🙂 I won’t beat myself up over it. I have a few more pics coming later this week to show my length.
oh no darling! I’m sorry to hear of your bad experience. I’m so happy that you were able to get the breakage to subside.
I wonder why you have so much tangling in the first place. Perhaps the way that she rinses your hair is the culprit. And as to your thinning hemline, does she use a protective cream on the length of your hair?
If you’ve had this much success with your stylist and salon thus far, don’t be too quick to jump the gun. Breath, keep calm, and remember that it will totally grow back!
SavingOurStrands
My hair tangles something awful at home if I don’t wash in sections. My hair isn’t being washed in sections at the salon. Plus, my hair is laying in the shampoo bowl, collecting all shed and breakage. That is part the problem (I think). My stylist is cool but in the times I’ve tried to discuss protein overload, etc, the conversation didn’t progress. I do like she understands the difference between a trim and a cut. I’m weighing my options and will do so logically without making any rash decisions. Thank you for the support.
Oh! Sorry about this mishap. Can you make one change at a time to see which one will work rather than all at once?
Oh yes, definitely one step or action at a time. I will then take a pause to assess before moving to my next action. I learned that the hard way with doing a regi overhaul. Thank you for the support.
Sorry you are having so many breakage problems. One thing that has been on my mind is the sink the stylist uses. When you are in the shower, everything rinses easily from your ends. But in a sink, especially with your length, it is possible the ends did not get rinse clean of relaxer residue? Even if she neutralized well, if your ends were “sitting” in the sink during rinse out, maybe they did not get rinsed enough, leaving that very strong neutralizer residue on them. I’m just guessing but that has crossed my mind when leaning back in the stylist sink that who knows how many heads have been in and Lord help, how often do they sanitize the sink. Baby those ends and get a nice trim. It will be over soon.
Hiya! I have always struggled with tangling. It’s worse at the salon because like you mentioned, my length is collecting all the runoff. I hide 24/7 during the winter so I will quickly forget about the problem when the seasons change.
I’m glad you were able to control the breakage/shedding. Your hair looks fabulous though. I like you enjoy a purdy hemline….but the hemline you have now seems pretty blunt to me. Is the shape of your old hemline what you want now?
I love even hemlines. Actually, I’m a sucker for them. I love my old hemline but I’m unable to maintain that as my hair grows longer. My left grows faster than my right and just make things look weird if I don’t even things out. I will post a pic of the unevenness later this week. The above TU pic has some wave from my braid out. The pic later this week will be of straighter hair. I feel my hair looks better in print than what I see in the mirror. I do wear glasses so maybe the mirror and my eyes are just playing tricks with me. Dh thinks my hair looks fine. I know he’d keep it real if no one else would. He thinks ride it out and see if things even and thicken to my liking.
DH is a wise man. Please listen to him, your hair is beautiful!
Lol En! I’ll be sure to tell him that. Dude will be cheesing. Thank you, my friend.
Ladies, thank you all for the support and encouragement.
Sorry about the brakage, perhaps you can do a protein after neutralizing? (as opposed to not using it at all) but Damn that throwback pic is gorgeous!!!
Are you sure the reason for the difference in appearance isnt cos you didnt stay to do a rollerset and went home to finish instead?
whats your reason for wanting to change relaxers? Do you sudden think it might be too strong or something?I thought the reason for this was cos of the absence of the protein step..? What relaxer was used for the throwback pic?
Apologies for all the questions lol
Thank you Yada and no apology needed girly.
I will use protein after neutralizing here on out. Period. I’m too afraid not too seeing what happened here.
I no long sit through the roller set torture. I now sit under the hooded dryer and let that be it. Occasionally, she will blow dry it a tad to complete the drying processing but it’s really quick and not too much heat exposure.
I air dried at home at home vs. the typical hooded dryer/blow dry so that would definitely differ. However, the comparison photos of pre-TU and post-TU are both on air dried hair. Now, the difference is, my hair is thinner in appearance the first week or so post-TU. Once it thickens things may look better.
I’m not certain what I want to do, honestly. I’ve been relaxed with Design Essentials Regular for about 3 years. The throwback was likely Design Essentials Sensitive Scalp. This was mild and gentle on my scalp. My hair did well with it for about a year but out of nowhere, my hair started getting under processed. I tried working with my then stylist but I kept getting under processed. I switched salons to my now stylist and she upgraded me to Design Essentials Regular. Maybe it’s time to down grade back to Sensitive Scalp.
I will say, I do like my stylist. I will be meeting with her over the next few weeks to discuss so I can make an informed decision of where do I/we go from here.
Plz forgive the typos.
Thanks so much for answering. It sounds like you really like the salon/stylist so hopefully application isnt the cause. It may just be the absence of the protein that caused it..perhaps you should see if that’s all it was with the next touch up before you change relaxers/stylists? Just a suggestion 🙂
How long did you use the sensitive scalp before it turned on you? It’s nice that your hair works with both lye and no-lye.
I went back and read my post to you and whew, embarrassing. Typing from my phone while being on the move didn’t work out so great. Sawwwy! You’re welcome and thank you for your concern.
I do like her. She listens and is not offended about my hair paranoia. I’m totally cool with speaking with her about my concerns. She’s always willing to hear me out. This openness lacked at some of the other salons I’ve frequented over the years. She understands dust vs. trim which is awesome.
The more I inspect my hair, the more it appears the ends are wimpy in comparison to the rest of my hair like how ladies experience when moving from relaxed to texlaxed. I also can tell a difference in my hair’s texture — think that has to do with me having used no lye previously and I am now using lye. I prefer the lye texture which is why I will be a tad hesitant to go back to Sensitive Scalp.
I’ll ride the wave for a few weeks to see what comes of this. I can be a bit dramatic and went there initially but I’m looking at this thing with a clear head now.
I used Sensitive Scalp for about 1 yr 1/2, give or take. What I found was the longer I stretched, the less it worked. When I was going every 6 weeks, Sensitive Scalp worked awesome. When I stretched to 10 weeks and beyond, meh…not so much. I also believe the stylist was unable to navigate through my new growth as quickly which is also a reason for some under processing.
Sorry to ramble and chat your head off. Again, thank you.
Oh no…. Girl u need to start self relaxing….. U NEED to overcome the fear… And start self relaxing… I’m glad you got it under control…. You will do a much better job, simply cos you have a much better understanding of your hair than any stylist will… Practice with conditioner… Prepart and twist, then practice your timing. About changing relaxers…. That’s up to you… If you self relax, and hate the results you get, try something else…. Mizani completely tried to melt every strand off my head… The cheapie optimum in the red box is like heaven for me…. To me pricy vs drugstore doesn’t come into play with relaxers… It’s what your hair chooses to accept that works best…. SELF RELAX!!!!!!
I was a self-relaxer for years back in the day and used Optimum. I overlapped something serious but that was before I knew better.
Sorry for the breakage and good you got it under control! My hair gets tangled badly too am scared of relaxing. Your progress is amazing though!
My hair tangles crazy bad. Always have been that way. Thank you for the kind compliment.