I’m sure the majority of us know the importance of hair porosity but what about hair density? Although hair density is not mentioned nearly as often as hair porosity, both play an important role in our hair care regimen. They drive what products we use and how often. Both control the overall appearance of our hair on a daily basis — having a better understanding about hair porosity and hair density will help transform our hair from limp and lifeless to bounce and fabulous.
Hair Porosity
Hair porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb moisture. High porosity hair typically results from chemical or mechanical damage. It absorbs water and product quickly but also loses it quickly. Therefore, frequent use of product may be required.
Low porosity hair have cuticles that are tightly closed, thus it absorbs less water and product. As a result, low porosity hair craves moisture! However, when the proper amount of moisture is absorbed into the strands, moisture tends to hang around for a while and evaporate slowly. Therefore, applying product daily, when moisture is achieved, may not be required.
Hair Density
Hair density relates to the number of strands per square inch on our scalp. High density hair is said to be thick whereas low density hair is said to be thin. Do know, this definition does not apply to all. I’ve seen some suggest they have low density, thick strands and high density, fine strands. How can this be, you ask? In the case of low density, thick strands, ladies have thick strands but not a lot of strands per square inch so the overall appearance of the hair is thinner. In the case of high density, fine strands, ladies have a lot of smaller strands in diameter per square inch so the overall appearance of the hair is thicker.
Generally speaking, high density, thick strands can use product frequently and it takes well to thick butters and creams. Low density, fine strands doesn’t require nearly as much product so it responds best to lighter products like lotions and creams. Low density hair tends to get weighed down easily and become limp and lifeless when too much or too heavy of a product is applied. This then translates to styles not lasting or holding. Limp and lifeless hair can also happen with higher density hair although it’s not as common.
Example
My hair, for example, is normal to high porosity and medium to thick in density. Because my hair’s porosity falls in two different categories, I’ve learned that my hair requires frequent use of product. The key to what types of products I use relate to its medium to thick density. My hair loves creamy moisturizers but it hates thinner consistency products like hair lotions. Hair lotions do nothing for my hair and vanish without a trace, leaving my hair lacking moisture. Because my hair’s density falls in two different categories, I’ve learned to limit the use of thick hair butters because it weighs down my hair and makes it appear greasy, limp and lifeless.
Conclusion
Although hair porosity and hair density differ, each is important in determining how we care for our hair. Having a grasp of where our hair falls in the porosity spectrum will help us determine how much moisture is required on a day-to-day basis. It also helps us to know what ingredients to use and/or avoid. Hair density helps us to determine what product consistency works best for our high or low density hair. Understanding and balancing the needs of our hair porosity and hair density will better equip us to creating the perfect hair regimen.
What is your hair porosity?
HAIR DENSITY….
Many people confuse hair TEXTURE with hair density. As posted in the article, hair density has to do with how many hairs are actually on the head, or how many teeny dots (openings to hair follicles) are in each square inch (if you take an inch of hair in one direction and and hold that hair an inch in another direction, it is called a SQUARE INCH) if you count the hairs within that inch you can know the hair density.
The PROBLEM with using terms like density and thickness is that they often refer to very different things.
Scientifically, it is IMPOSSIBLE to increase hair DENSITY. We are born with a certain number of hair follicles per square inch on our heads and that is it.
But…. (and it is a HUGE BUT) we often have ways to increase both the appearance of how thick our hair is AND we can WAKE UP dormant follicles.
WHAAAAAAAT?
Yes. Each of us have a certain number of holes or tunnels on our scalp, the more you have the thicker your hair. I have a lot of holes on my scalp BUT I have very, very FINE hair.
I am going to write about the 2 different terms of Hair Density and how to maximize that — then hair DIAMETER and how we can maximize (or minimize ) that.
Hair density.
At any one time, all of the follicles on your head may or may not be active. Often a few go dormant or take a break. This is true during times of active estrus or cessation (menstruation or going through the change and also following pregnancy)
When our hair changes due to hormones, often we SHED or lose hair–this is natural and has to do with how hormones influence our hair. When we get extra amounts of estrogen like during pregnancy, our hair grows and as it stabilizes and we get other hormones the hair may fall out–the FOLLICLES (which are what those little tunnels are called) may go to sleep after they go through the hair phases of GROWTH.
We all have hair phases of growth. They are the active or anagen phase, the resting or catagen phase, the resting or telogen phase and the new growth or exogen phase.
For more info on hair phases, look HERE : http://www.viviscal.com/hair-growth-cycle
Not all hair grows at the same time and hair can REST. Sometimes, due to illness or hormones or stress, or trauma hair can shed or rest for longer periods of time
When this happens, hair can APPEAR thinner even though a person has a lot of hair follicles–this is a way for the body to recoup. This happens when people get older, or after a baby, or after taking certain meds. Normally this state can be temporary and we can help or coax the follicles to WAKE BACK up, or slow down shedding by doing certain things:
A. SCALP MASSAGE–the follicles are the tunnels where the living part of your hair lives–that part needs a good, strong blood supply–blood bring nourishment to all cells including hair cells, so a good massage increase blood circulation and might wake up sluggish or resting hair paplillae.
B. Use of herbs or products: any one of the hair phases can be affected by medicines or hormones or herbs–we can use ONION JUICE to stimulate and prolong the anagen or growing phase. We are not sure how onion juice really works but it seems to prolong anagen phase or delay the onset of the catagen phase which is the phase in which hair STOPS growing.
C. Garlic juice appears to DELAY the telogen phase–we see this as the phase in which the hair stops all growth. It actually slows down dramatically in the catagen phase but often we do not notice this as such–garlic juice appears to shrink the opening of the follicle so that the hair does not immediately drop off or out of the follicle
Now neither of these things can create new follicles but they can bring sleeping follicles back on line OR delay follicles from releasing our longer hairs.
there are also many medicines that can influence how hair sheds or delay follicle release but I only want to discuss the natural methods.
SO NOW THAT WE KNOW HOW MANY HAIRS PER SQUARE INCH = HAIR DENSITY OR THICKNESS… it is time to underline the hair DIAMETER so that we can understand the difference and use products correctly.
HAIR TEXTURE is determined by the diameter of each individual hair strand .
When there are lots of enamel coatings (cuticle layers) the diameter of hair feels thicker and coarser–many people think Type 4 hair is automatically coarse and thick–it is not, many African textured hair is very, very fine and soft and individual hairs are very , very thin.
My hair is so fine, it feels like cobwebs. If you take a strand and pinch it between your fingers, you have to check to make sure you actually are holding one of my hairs. This means my hair DIAMETER is very, small, or that I have very few coats of enamel on my hair cuticles.
Think of enamel as the outside coating of each layer of the cuticle. Type 1 hair often has many, many layers of enamel on each cuticle scale, Asian and Hispanic hair as a rule often has many more layers than Caucasian hair –African or Type 4 hair has the least layers of cuticle enamel BUT can still have a larger hair shaft…
WHAT? Yeah, it is complicated.
suffice to say, you can have a lot of hair per square inch (I have a lot of hair in the crown of my head but each hair is very thin, together, (hair density + hair diameter) means I appear to have THICK HAIR.
Really, I don’t have “thick hair” I have a LOT of thin hair. LOL.
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While we cannot change the hair density (what you are born with is what you have) we CAN use products to increase hair diameter.
1. Conditioners –there are volumizers which cause the hair shaft to swell , this makes individual hairs seem thicker and gives the illusion of more hair by taking up more space.
B. Other conditioners coat individual hair strands making them appear stronger and more substantial, these products layer silicone or other plasticized layers temporarily on the hair strand and this makes the strands appear more substantial. Again, this is temporary when in a shampoo and is only good until the next washing-
Be careful with products such as either of these because the sticky nature of these products often attracts and holds dust as well (the same stickiness which allows conditioners to stick to your hair may still be sticky)
Many people do not like using conditioners or volumizers because they leave a FILM on your hair strands , still, they are a way to increase the APPEARANCE of larger hair diameter.
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2. Permanent thickeners–many products temporarily thicken hair–marshmallow root, aryuvedic plant serums and oils, such as Brahmi oil, and vatika oil but certain items or products permanently adhere to the cuticle and over time BUILD layers of protection AND make the strands thicker:
HENNA builds up on the hair shaft after repeated applications and can make finer hair appear thicker.
ALL hair products which say they will “thicken” your hair really mean they will increase the diameter of individual hairs either temporarily or permanently.
B. Some hair coloring agents also build up on the hair shaft and can make hair appear thicker (the hair strand gets thicker looking and this makes it look like you have more strands on your head)
Normally the coarser or more substantial the individual strand, the “thicker” we think the hair will be or appear. This is not always true–you can have really, thick or coarse strands but not have a lot of them–”
Thick , Medium or Thin hair refers to HAIR DENSITY.
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Fine, coarse or medium individual hair diameter. refers to HAIR TEXTURE.
If you have Coarse, hair and a lot of it, you probably have THICK HAIR–this is a nightmare for hair braiders, particularly if they quote price due to hair length and fail to understand you might have short hair but a LOT of it.
If you have medium hair and a lot of it–you also will be perceived as having thick hair
If you have fine hair and a lot of it–your hair is very fragile and you will not be perceived as having thick hair because the amount will still seem small when gathered together due to how thin EACH hair is–BUT again, when braiding or locking this hair, it will take a long time due to hair DENSITY.
If you are wanting to use products to increase how your hair LOOKS in volume, then you can use conditioners and serums or henna and coloring.
If you wish to increase how many of your follicles are awake and growing, you can use herbal or oil products such as Castor oil, Neem oil, garlic and onion juice products.
If you wish to increase how many follicles you have–well.. that has not been invented yet–pray on it.
I think the information above is EXCELLENT for advising how to use product so have nothing to add, but for many of us –we want MORE hair or want to change how our hair looks–
If you want to decrease the thickness or the perception of it, of your hair, do not use volumizers or thickeners for fine or thin hair and be careful with henna. If you truly despise your uber thick hair, give yourself relaxers–over time it will thin out your hair especially where it overlaps.
Coloring often adds coatings or thickness–you just do the opposite if you want to decrease volume and thickness perception.
Note: as you age, your follicles may go dormant and hairs will change once they lose melanin which adds not only a level of diameter to each hair shaft but also influences curl patterns (gray hair is often more wiry, coarser and less curly than your original hair)
Excellent information!!
I have another take on this based on what people want to achieve with hair products and their hair.
I think it is important to know the difference between HAIR DENSITY AND HAIR TEXTURE.
HAIR DENSITY–is based on how many hair follicles are in each square inch of your head. If you take inch of your hair and then grab more hair in a perpendicular direction so you are holding 1 inch sideways and 1 inch up and down, that is a square inch.
You can NEVER change how dense your hair is–meaning the amount of hair follicles you are born with is the amount you will have until you die.
BUT know that not all hair follicles are “ON LINE” at any one time. Follicles which are just the names of the tunnels your hair grows out of –sometimes go dormant or to sleep for a while–they may do this during the catagen or telogen hair phase (part of the hair growing cycle) OR they may go to sleep due to poor nutrition, decrease blood supply, medicines or disease or for other reasons.
It is important to know or be able to assume why your hair is thin or thick, or why your strands are smaller in diameter than they used to be. Which brings us to HAIR DIAMETER–this is the size of individual strands.
HAIR DIAMETER–plays a very important role in determining if you are perceived as having “thick hair” or “thin hair” it is the size all the way around of EACH hair strand.
You can have hair as fine as cobwebs (like mine) but have so many hair follicles that combined together or held in a bunch, you appear to have thick hair.
For hair dressers, there are two types of hair combinations which they often have more challenges working with:
Coarse hair, with high density (thick, wiry strands and a lot of them) this hair is often not as easy to braid because it seems never ending–hair braiders often miscalculate the amount of time it takes to braid this hair if it is short ,because they see short hair and do not think it will take very long BUT due to how much hair is there and what can be braided in each section, it takes FAR LONGER than they thought.
Very, very fine hair with high density is the other nightmare. The problem here is the CHALLENGE of how to treat hair so fine you cannot feel the individual strands while at the same time, gauging temperatures and roller use differently–thin hair dries sooner and wispier and is easier to burn–but if you do not put enough on the roller, it will dry weird, or too curly, if you put too much, it will not all dry evenly–
so it is a paradox to have very fine hair but a lot of it–it also is”THICK HAIR” because when we meet a thick head of hair, we are talking NOT about texture but about how much hair per square inch.
To see thick hair which is rather coarse, look at Naptural85 on youtube. To see thick hair which is very fine, look at Cipriana on UrbanBushBAbes on youtube. Of the 2, Cip will have hair more difficult to style and manipulate because fine hairs break more easily and require more juggling of technique and products.
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HAIR TEXTURE–are the size or diameter of each hair
HAIR DENSITY– HOW MANY HAIRS (hair follicles) PER SQUARE INCH ON YOUR HEAD.
Believe it or not–nothing at this time can be done about how many hair follicles you have BUT things can be done to either WAKE UP sleeping follicles OR to slow down hair shedding which is the same as making hair follicles –“pucker up” and hold onto hair.
WAKE UP–hair follicles.
Depending on the reason your follicles are sleeping (and some are sleeping on everyone’s heads at any given time) we can wake them up and set them back to producing hair–some natural methods are using either onion juice (onion juices has an exogenic factor which draws things out–in the case of hair, it encourages hair to begin pushing back toward and out of the scalp. To use, either juice an onion or blend it very fine, apply to scalp (not hair especially) then cover and go to sleep–you will stink like onions–the best way to use this is over a weekend so that after you rinse your scalp, it can air dry and the smell can dissappate, otherwise, rinse and shampoo (but you will lose some of the benefit)
Do this 3 times a week for 2 weeks and you MAY see improvement on hair shedding or growth issues.
Another product to use are oils–Castor oil and Neem oil also have exogenic properties.
None of these increases how many hair follicles you were born with BUT they can increase your hair density by waking up or bringing back on line any follicles that were vacationing
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HOLD ONTO hair that wants to shed early
Natural ways to decrease shedding or to prolong either the anagenic hair phase (keep it growing longer) OR to delay the telogenic phase is to use garlic oil on the scalp.
Garlic causes the opening of each follicle to draw up, this makes the tiny opening hang onto hair so that it cannot drop out. IMO, garlic does not grow hair–BUT it does make it possible to hang onto hair longer–to grow or excite hair into growing more, I recommend onion juice , to hold onto hair, I recommend garlic juice. To use, buy garlic oil capsules (pure ones) and break about 16 of them open into a cup of warm EVOO then apply to your scalp and baggy and go to bed or get under a warm dryer for about 30-45 minutes, be sure to put a towel around your neck–it will drip.
Then shampoo your head.
There are also garlic shampoo preparations you can buy you can find a lot of them on Amazon.
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THICKEN THIN DIAMETER HAIR STRANDS.
For people who have naturally thin hair and want it to appear thicker, you need products that COAT the hair strands or cause them to swell up.
VOLUMIZERS–are shampoos or conditioners that cause hair shafts to swell up –this hair bloating appears to make hair feel more substantial and therefore thicker. the volumizer is only good until you wash it out. it can make hair feel sticky and appear duller
CONDITIONERS–conditioners normally do not bloat the hair shaft like volumizers. Instead they COAT the outside of the hair shaft with a thin plasticized layer –this coating makes each hair feel and look thicker–it lasts until the next shampoo
HENNA–henna is a permanent hair thickener—it works by coating the hair with its natural substance and these coatings build up over time–the plus of henna is that it is natural, and the thickening is not only permanent but healthy because it binds to the hair (Like protein) and makes it stronger , shinier, as well as appear thicker and feel thicker due to it buidling layers on the hair.
Henna unlike protein, can be applied over and over again with no ill effects however, it can be expensive, time consuming AND can react very badly to those who have chemically colored treated hair if they switch back from henna to chemical dyes (easy to switch from checmical dyes to henna, dangerous to switch from henna back the other way)
Brahmi, Vatika and other aryuvedic oils–also coat and in some cases penetrate the hair, hardening the hair shaft as well as coating and eventually increasing the diameter of each hair.
Any of these things can make hair APPEAR and FEEL and LOOK thicker but the density stays the same and the amount of hair is the same.
Either density or texture can influence the idea of “thick hair”
BTW–I have very, very fine hair–which makes it seem more fragile–but I have a high density on my scalp–which means in some areas it appears thicker and feels thicker but for me–thinner or lighter products due not work due to both porosity issues and the idiosyncrasies of my hair–due to hair diameter (which is normally HOW you base your products) I have to use thicker products to gain an increase, due to hair DENSITY–I have to use a lot of product.
When deciding what products to use and how much–base this on hair TEXTURE not density –this is why products will mention use for fine medium or coarse hair–texture CAN be influenced by products–DENSITY can be influenced by health, meds, herbs BUT you cannot really change density.
If you wish to know what products to use, base this on hair qualities including:
A. TEXTURE
B. PLIABILITY
C. POROSITY
D. CUTICLE HEALTH (damaged, open, closed)
E. ELASTICITY
F. CHEMICAL USAGE
G. MANIPULATION TECHNIQUES (If you plan to use heat or get a protein treatment)
H. HAIR CONDITION (breakage shedding, thinning)
ALL of these determine which products to use and DENSITY determines HOW MUCH product you will need to do what you need to do.
FINALLY: your hair changes as you have hormonal shifts–such as pregnancy (explosive growth and lots of shedding) , emotional or physical trauma (hair can go dormant or shed, thin dramaticaly, or even lose melanin*) menopause–hair texture often goes haywire, aging*
*As you age, melanin decreases and stops–along with that, hair texture often becomes more wiry for some and finer for others and hair loses a lot of its ability to curl, which is why old people often have straighter hair–this is because as you age, hair begins to lose ALL of its defining characteristics due to exhaustion of these from the ability to coil to the color and amount of cuticle enamel.**
**Cuticle enamel or hair mantle can be many layers or not many—as a rule, the more layers of enamel, the coarser and stronger the hair–Ethnic groups such as Asians and Hispanics have the most enamel layers, followed by Caucasians or Type 1 hair, Type 4 hair can have fewer layers but as a rule, the coarser or more wiry the hair, the more enamel layers it has.
Cutlcle enamel layers helps to determine cuticle strength and resiliency.
I balance hair porosity and texture based on :
A. TEXTURE
B. PLIABILITY
C. POROSITY
D. CUTICLE HEALTH (damaged, open, closed)
E. ELASTICITY
F. CHEMICAL USAGE
G. MANIPULATION TECHNIQUES (If you plan to use heat or get a protein treatment)
H. HAIR CONDITION (breakage shedding, thinning)
What I use at any given time depends on :
1. INGREDIENTS(what is in the product) certain chemicals or ingredients can be detrimental to use at the wrong time of year or for the wrong reasons,e g–glycerine (no matter the source), humectants, sulfates, protein
2. MY ISSUES: if I need more strength or the appearance of thickness, if I need more hold, or more softening agents, if I want to “rest” my hair or “wake it up”
3. MY PLANNED TECHNIQUES–products use depends on what you want to do–if you plan on chemical treatments, there are products to protect and prepare the hair, if I plan on using heat or any thermagenic process–different products to use
4.MY HEALTH–the best products for hair can and should be taken internally–nutrition, vitamins but some are more effective and can only be applied to hair not ingested–so I use accordingly
5. HAIR CONDITION–I periodically test my hair porosity, cuticle health, elasticity, pliability. These factors tell me a LOT about what my hair NEEDS after that, I can determine the products to use to meet those needs*
* Most people do not consider what their hair needs–instead they think about how they want their hair to look or feel—it is like having a sick child or hungry child and thinking you meet their needs by buying them new clothes and pretty shoes–
HOW MUCH of any product I use is determined by HAIR DENSITY.
but my thickness NEVER determines whether I use a thick or thin product –the ingredients determine that–I may NEED some of the things in a product whose medium is thick but since my hair is THIN–I apply a very small amount to each section–but since my over all density is HIGH–I may end up using a lot on my entire head, even though I used only a LITTLE on each section.
Ingredients should always determine use–not the consistency of the product–if too thick, use more or dilute with a carrier oil or with water if possible.
You have a thorough understanding of your hair. Unfortunately, many of us don’t. I didn’t for the longest and I know there’s still more to learn. Product consistency is/was a good start point for those struggling until they better understand what their hair wants or doesn’t want. That’s why I wrote it from that angle. As we learn more, we can alter by ingredients. Ingredients are hard to grasp in the beginning though…or it was for me anyway.
Ingredients are still hard for me. I have tried a lot of products that did not go well with my 4c hair. I am still learning.
They are hard for me too…aloe vera is very hard for me to pinpoint. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t.
Everything is relative. We rarely have one type of hair on our heads and so many factors play into it that we have to experiment with our own heads a lot.
My knowledge level is conditional and though I have had a lot of success in caring for hair–there is still so much to learn.
The best thing for anyone to do for their hair is DOCUMENT and JOURNAL what they used on their head each day and INCLUDE weather and home conditions, if you wore a hat or not, if you were sick or not, what your diet was
Truly journal your day because sometimes what does not go well has more to do with what we put inside of us and not what we put on our hair or had to do with the wrong product at the wrong time of year , or in the wrong season, or we have other needs that must be met.
There is a BASIC level of hair care we must all get to, before taking it to the next level where we are so concerned with product:
INTERNAL:
Make sure to drink at least 1/2 your body weight in water to keep your system flushed
2. As much as possible, try to eliminate extra drugs and chemicals from your diet. I eat a mostly raw, vegetarian diet (though every now and then I eat cooked food or even chicken or fish)
3. Be sure to eat adequate amounts of green vegetables–hair that is IRON, NIACIN, VIT.A, VIT D, VIT E , other B VITAMINS or protein deficient will look, feel and respond very differently than hair that is nourished INSIDE as well as outside Also be sure to get enough MINERALS such as ZINC and SULFUR
Eat a diet high in dark leafy greens, fruits and vegetables and protein sources high in Omega 6 and Omega 3 fatty acids.
4. Be sure to include healthy fats from either fruit, or nuts in your diet. Olive oil, coconut oil, wheatgerm oil, avocado oil or eating olives and avocados and nuts are healthy choices to get enough fat–if you lack fat in your diet, it will affect how your hair responds or even IF your hair can respond to products.
5. Steer clear of caffiene which can cause hair to be thinner and brittle as caffiene is often a diuretic and causes the body to not be able to retain fluids, also caffiene accelerates heart rate which can have a negative effect on the adrenal glands, and NIX processed foods and sugars as all can have a negative affect on hair and body health
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Once you have had your internal regimen for your hair ON POINT then it is time to take a closer look at your EXTERNAL regimen–this means the products you use ON or with your hair and your ENVIRONMENT
EXTERNAL–ENVIRONMENT:
1. Pay attention to your products–do not use sulfate products unless you need to strip out products like gels or silicone oils on your hair–use a sulfate product BEFORE you resort to a clarifier, often a sulfate shampoo will cleanse enough to not need a clarifier
2. Use a chelating shampoo to remove hard water deposits and chemicals–hair exposed to hard water has a hard time absorbing products effiiciently
3. Use a clarifier no more than 1 per month or LESS because it is harsh on hair
4. Get a shower water filter if you can and when you moisturize with water as your first step, use distilled or purified water to eliminate reactivity of the water to your products
5. wear scarves in windy weather or very hot or very cold weather–especially in winer
6. cover your head at home if you have a very drying heat environment
7. Be aware of very drying air in the car
8.. LIMIT use of dryers including blow dryers with diffusers on your hair–wind dessicates even if it is hand held and blowing cool air.
9. Use protective hair styles but NEVER braid, twist or sew in at your hair line in front or back unless you like the Tyra Banks / Rhianna forehead look
10 Pay attention to the weather–sunny days, cover it up. windy days, hell yeah, cover it up– rainy days–ok, super cold days cover it up
11. a protective hair style is NOT a good cover up from wind and sun–it is better than nothing but covering your hair in the protective style is better–perfect either the Grace Kelly look , the Audrey Hepburn look or the Erikah Badu look when it is bad or negative weather.
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EXTERNAL PRODUCT
Know WHEN to use products: if you live in a drier climate especially in the winter (snow is considered a DRY winter climate) then do NOT use humectants in dry weather because ALL humectants draw moisture from surrounding areas to the area that is drier.
This means if it is wet outside, a humectant will draw the moisture from the wet outside into your hair–BUT if it is drier outside, the humectant will draw the moisture FROM YOUR HAIR and give it to the drier outside. It is a chemical process, nothing personal.
So you should not use humectants in climates with dry winters or dry summers, or when the dew point or humidity is lower than 60%
There are EXCEPTIONS but first your humectants–
A. ANY PRODUCT WITH GLYCERINE IN IT
B. Castor oil, and any product that says it is a humectant is one–honey is a humectant–use these products in wetter spring or summer weather, begin to put them up in the fall…
If you MUST use a humectant then know how or when to use it.
Castor oil is a multi use product–it is a hair follicle potentiator, carrier oil, humectant, sealer, protectant, softener.
to use it in not so great weather, LAYER it.
THE ORDER you use products in MATTERS. If you doubt this–do a little test: put products on one way on one side of your head and another way on the other—it is like making gravy–adding flour to cold water makes a thickener–adding flour to hot water makes glue–adding water to floiur of any temperature makes LUMPS.
HOW you add matters.
What does this have to do with 4c hair?
A lot of people who think they have 4 c hair are SHOCKED to find out they do not have 4 C hair–after tweaking their diet or the order of their products–they find out their texture, look and pliability CHANGES.
So before you give up on any product, FIRST get your body right –INSIDE, then get your regimen right OUTSIDE (this depends on where you live and what kind of hair you have and what you do)
YOU CANNOT KNOW WHAT PRODUCTS TO OPTIMALLY USE IF YOUR BODY IS NOT RIGHT OR YOU DO TO TAKE PRECAUTIONS BECAUSE WHAT YOU BUY MAY STILL NOT BE APPROPRIATE FOR YOUR HAIR.
here is a sample regimen, no matter what type of hair you have or if it is relaxed, texlaxed or natural:
1. Get your health/body right internally see above
2. Have a Seasonal cleansing regimen (fall/winter regimen) then spring/summer) or whatever.
Spring /Summer regimen:
A. Check porosity
B.check elasticity/pliability
C. Check cuticles
1. buy appropriate shampoos or cleanser–do not use bar soaps unless your hair is natural, if you have hard water, get a filter or use distilled water as your final rinse and go to sallys to get a chelating shampoo (this is only partially useful since you still rinse with hard water later)
2. Learn the proper technique for cleaning YOUR hair–differs for relaxed, locked , color treated, and natural
3. Buy appropriate pre poos (hair pretreatments usually a conditioner mixed with an oil then heated up–
4. Buy an appropriate deep conditioner
5. Buy an appropriate pH or acid mantle restorer (ACV if natural, ALOE if relaxed OR just cold water with nothing in it)
6. Buy a detangler conditioner if necessary
here: PREPOO>>>>> (can skin treat or dandruff treat here) >>>>>>SHAMPOO>>>>>>Deep condition>>>>>>>detangle or leave in>>>>>>>>acid mantle pH and cuticle closer (should be as cold as you can stand)
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Wrap hair in old, clean t shirt to blot, then move on to moisturizing regimen:
1. Buy appropriate ceramide (wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, hemp oil)
2. buy appropriate CARRIER OIL (coconut, avocado, olive)
you will get the most bang for your buck with these 3 oils, coconut oil can be drying, olive oil is great for moisture retention and mixing with treatment oils and avocado is a heat protectant oil as is grapeseed which also can be drying and which goes rancid if not stored in the fridge
3. buy a spray bottle for distilled water
4. buy distilled water
5. Buy a moisturizer–oil is NOT a moisturizer
6. by therapeutic oils such as tea tree, castor oil, neem oil
7. buy a sealer oil if you are natural, you may need to use a silicone based oil if you are not natural.
here it is: ON clean hair that is already cold water cuticle closed: spritz with WARM distilled water (or can just baggy later)>>>> apply ceramide>>>>>>>>>carrier oil and therapeutic oil on scalp or hair >>>>>> spritz again with water (just a light mist)>>>>>>> apply moisturizer>>>>apply sealing butter–baggy up and put a winter hat on if staying home–go to bed like this or baggy up and get under a warm dryer for about 30 minutes–be sure ALL hair is covered.
This is called the LOCO method which means a liquid is applied to the hair, then an oil (feeder oils or carrier oils) then a conditioner or moisturizer then finally a sealing oil to hold it all in.
this is a WINTER/FALL regimen that takes into account a glycerin product or humectant and gives it moisture to draw from so that it does not feed hair moisture to the outside–this is why there is an “oil sandwich”
For Spring/summer–use any glycerin based products if your summers are humid and just do a LOC method.
I actually prefer using moisturizer to using a conditioner–some moisturizers are just that–they are conditioners with water and oil suspended in them–you want water in the mix just so the humectant does not make a mistake in how it draws up moisture.
So in winter–LOCO and GHE (Green house effect–double baggying)
in Summer and Spring or in humid weather–LOC
___________________________________________________________
It is not a good idea to buy products because someone else likes them or they did wonders for them–FIRST KNOW YOUR HAIR–GET IT RIGHT And there will be few problems–this means get your diet right and your vitamins right before you begin to experiment on your hair.
Doing it in the reverse, would be like a dr prescribing you meds before he even examined you to find out what the problems/illness was.
How likely is he to be right? How likely are we, if we use products when our issues that affect how products work have not been taken care of?
I once went a full year trying to figure out why my normal products were no longer working–only to finally document my journal and realize it was my hbp meds which made me pee so much I was dehydrated and was not getting enough moisture. I drank some more and less than 3 weeks later (yes it takes time) my shedding and breakage had slowed down and my products were back to doing what they used to do.
it can be as simple as that.
Sometimes in our hurry to get our journey up and running we skip over the small things–but small things over time can cause BIG issues.
NOTE–added to regimen at 4-6 week intervals are protein or hair strengtheners–can be protein, can be henna –or can be implemented weekly if using natural proteins like yogurt or coconut/avocado
Also NOTE–if you have colored treated or very damaged hair you may be using some type of repair formula, normally every 2 weeks or so for colored hair, and every 4-6 weeks for noncolored hair
If you wish to apply color, –that is another issue entirely.
if you want healthy hair and want to see just how amazing your hair can be and want it strong and manageable and the hair typing to be authenic–do not color your hair and do not relax or chemically treat it–if your hair is already relaxed or color treated, hair typing is not relevant as hair that is chemically altered has very different needs and reacts differently to products due to the chemical configuration (usually) than natural hair–treat your hair accordingly.
Oh my gosh yes, I love my Sprite Water Filter that I got from Lowe’s. I still clarify / chelate as-needed though.
Jay: Aloe Vera gel is a beast all of its own and there are reasons it sometimes works and at other times does not– the thing about aloe vera gel is that it is WATER BINDING.
This means it attaches to water where it is and HOLDS it.
sounds like a humectant huh? But a humectant does not attach to water, it ATTRACTS water to it (like a water magnet) then pulls it and MOVES IT to another area.
There IS a huge difference here.
A humectant can be your best friend in a moist laden or high humidity climate–IF you have problems with dry, brittle hair (even with low porosity)
The same humectant can work against you when the air outside is dry, because if you moisturize and wet your hair and the air in your home is drier, then that same humectant will pull the moisture OUT of your hair and turn it over to the air.
it is just a transportation vehicle, nothing more, nothing less.
NOW–aloe vera gel does not attract water (TMK) or pull it to dump somewhere else. It HOLDS what water is there to your hair but there is a PROBLEM with water being held to hair that is chemically treated.
chemically treated hair needs moisture also, but can only FEED or sip from it in smaller doses and only in certain forms.
Depending on your hair, and the time of year (air humidity) and the products on your hair–you can either MEET the moisture needs of your hair, surpass the needs of your hair or not give it enough moisture.
Have you ever used aloe vera gel and it left your hair feeling doll hair stringy and like the gel just set there ?
Chances are high you applied some in weather that was already humid AND your hair already had adequate moisture–if the response to your hair was a stringy, sitting on top of your head feeling, it may have been because your hair was ‘drowning or sinking fast with too much of a good thing.
Moisture is good for hair but only when it is ADEQUATE. if you give too much moisture to hair (or anything) a “good thing” can become a bad thing–this is true even for natural.
Too much water creates a condition known as HYGRAL FATIGUE which basically is a fancy term for hair DROWNING–it causes hair to become limp and stringy (on straighter hair) or to become limp and too SOFT and MUSHY on natural hair.
Either way, your hair cannot breathe and if it keeps up, you can almost thin out or melt the hair off your head. this is because like anything else that is drowning your hair can suffocate–if it does the follicles will attempt to shut down eventually to prevent so much water from entering the hair–the cuticles become inefficient–they will not shut tight and the cortex is overwhelmed with water.
TOO MUCH OF A GOOD THING.
One of the changes that happen during relaxing are that the HYDROGEN bonds within the hair shaft are BROKEN, they reform after neutralizing, but they are never as strong as they were –so you have to tread carefully with the water thing. These weakened bonds will react more quickly to water, softening and opening up or even breaking down–not all of them will do this but some will.
This is why newbies to relaxer are told to not go overboard washing their hair.
We get so fascinated to FINALLY go under water and have hair just hanging down that we (or at least I did) STAY in the shower, just to have our swath of hair hanging down our backs–we go swimming to get that “hang time” too
Then our hair starts to break or “act weird”
For relaxed girls * you have to CHOOSE YOUR WATER USAGE JUDICIOUSLY AND NEVER LET HAIR JUST HANG AROUND IN WATER.
Relaxed ladies need to give their hair support to BREATHE and do not want to tax the hydrogen bonds of their hair in any way–the Hydrogen bonds are your strongest hair bonds but they also are the most vulnerable to water since both contain hydrogen. (easy to exchange)
Since Aloe vera HOLDS water (so it just sits in place on wet hair) I would only use it when it is VERY DRY in the environment, then I would LIGHTLY MIST hair then apply a LIGHT touch of gel or juice.
If you use it to close your cuticles, ALWAYS MIX IT with 75% ice cold water, to 25% aloe vera then RINSE AGAIN LONGER with ice cold water to remove any juice that did not already react to your hair.
For you, it may be wiser to use the aloe to simply restore pH then get the rest out of your hair so that it does not sit in place holding the water in your hair.
The pH reaction on hair works pretty fast so there is no need to keep it longer, and the REAL action of closing your cuticles will be caused by the contraction of your cuticles to t he ice cold water.
This MAY be the reason you have a hit or miss experience with Aloe Vera, the other reason may be what you use it with.
Relaxed girls cannot afford to overmoisturize and the only time you want moisture held to your hair is if your hair is in very dry environmental conditions.
If you want to try what I mentioned about restoring your acid mantle (the pH thing) be sure to rinse, with ice cold water and then lightly blot your hair.
Hygral fatigue is not something many naturals pay attention to and they can get away with it if they do not do wash n gos too often but for relaxed ladies, you cannot afford to get hygral fatigue because the more you tax those hydrogen bonds the weaker those bonds become.
* I did not mention color treated hair because that is a whole other beast. LIFTED Colored treated hair IS more damaged than just relaxed hair but the damage is caused by a different reason and the actual damage is different (the hair is stripped of its essential self and replaced with synthetic ingredients within the actual cortex, some of those synthetics help to hold the hair shaft together but the hair is so porous that is almost impossible to “drown the hair with water because the hair cannot hold anything–this changes of course once protein treatments are given.
If this is confusing, please let me know and I will try to rephrase it–I tend to say too much and that often ends up with people not getting what they need.
Do you have the book the Science of Black hair by by Audrey Davis-Sivasothy t is an invaluable book though not always reader friendly.
I am a firm believer that once we understand the WHY of certain ingredients, we can then use them (or not use them) in our own arsenal.
I do not necessarily agree with everything Sivasothy writes having had some different anecdotal experience (and recognizing hair chemistry differs greatly from person due person due to genetics AND environment so products can react differently and fall out of the norm) but for the most part, she has great info.
There is so much info an so much “qualifying data to know…”
Hair typing a big deal–it can help natural know how to manipulate their hair but it does not mean the same thing for chemically altered hair unless you wish to transistion–this is because even when stretching, the intention is to alter how the disulfide bonds link to each other and to use a high alkali product to do so–so the hair is not 3c or even 1a or 2 b or anything like this–it is an alteration not seen in nature–and though often very beautiful, chemically treated hair is FRAGILE and in need of a lot more skill to keep “healthy”.
healthy is always a relative term BUT there is a level of care that can keep chemically treated hair so healthy that it can THRIVE. The key is to know when to take from another discipline and when to go your own way knowing your hair has other foci.
Very important for chemically treated hair are issues to do with porosity ,moisture retention, split ends, and hair weakness–all tied to cuticles.
Cuticle health makes hair less porous, holds in moisture, decreases those velcro scale lifting which can fray and causes or exacerbate split ends and can help the hair not snap so easily–BUT WAIT for chemically altered hair–THERE’S MORE.
This type of hair MUST be repaired or strengthend even more than natural hair. The bonds of the hair have been rearranged, in some cases they have been melted or broken off by the lye, in others they have rehardened but in odd ways and are weak–that does not matter–what matters is getting that hair to have reinforcment to hang on…
If you go to the NHM you will hear debates about henna vs protein for hair repair and reinforcement–you may even read a lot of info from me on this subject.
But now I am going to say something that some of you may not agree with…. Protein derived treatments (especially serums or reconstructors) are better for relaxed hair than Henna.
The reason is that Henna weighs down and coats the hair strands, which is great until the new growth starts. At the place of demarcation, if enough henna is applied over time that areas is STRESSED and WEAK due to the extra henna weight on the older part of the strand–it can break there.
Unlike protein,henna does not wash out over time and instead BUILDS on the strand– as it builds, minute amounts of weight are added to the strand and the hair may not only stretch but if the bonds are weak, it can snap there.
I do not recommend henna as a hair strengthener for relaxed hair –if you use it as a color, apply it often in order to equitably distribute the weight of the product on the new growth also.
IF you are a henna head –so be it–as much as possible pin your hair up to prevent too much weight from it hanging by the roots with no henna on the hair. It is not the roots that concern me–it is the DEMARCATION line between relaxed hair and the new growth–THIS is the area most prone to stress due to weight or combing or pulling/tension.
I will forever (unless the formulation changes) be a fan of Affirm 5 in 1 Reconstructor over protein serum, for ease of use and the fact is is so moisturizing AND conditioning–it is great for natural hair but is like food from heaven for relaxed hair.
QUALIFYING DATA to know:
Hair density
Hair texture
Hair porosity
Hair elasticity
Cuticle health
seasonal product changes such as humectants only in humid weather
Vitamin and mineral needs: find out how iron, sulfur, B vitamins,vitamin E, D, and A affect hair and what happens if you are body deficient but try to take them for your hair (they won’t go to your hair, the body is FIRST)
Know that it takes anywhere from 2 to 6 weeks to see the effects of vitamin changes–natural vitamins are best–the body often cannot absorb a lot of pharmaceutical made vitamins due to excipients.
Know the effects of silicones, steroidal creams, sulfates, and alcohols–they all can be useful but can harm or change your hair for the worst when you use them at the wrong time or for the wrong reasons.
it seems like a lot–but once you learn the basics, it is easier to just remember.
If there is one book that keeps it simple and is very helpful, it is Dr Phoenyx’s “If you love it, it will grow” get that and a lot of stuff is explained–it is heavy on natural hair but what is said about product still applies.
if you want even more info and are hungry for knowledge: try “The Science of Black Hair” but that book is pricey.
For providing relaxed hair with HAIR SIPS instead of water GULPS–use moisturizers instead of alow vera .
Moisturizers are nothing more than water, oil and conditioners held in a suspension so that the water does not escape and evaporate faster.
Moisturizers allow the hair to sip water over a long period of time–because water inevitably evaporates through microscopic cracks in the cuticles.
For relaxed hair–ADEQUATE moisture, means NO WATER HOLDING to hair–it is not a good idea to mist hair daily like natural girls do unless you do it very lightly or live somewhere very dry–instead it is good to “FEED water” in very tiny amounts while protecting the hair with conditioners this is what a moisturizer can do for you.
Prepoo>>>cleanse hair>>>>deep condition>>>>>(relaxed hair rarely needs detangling but if you do, go ahead and detangle>>>>rinse with ice cold water or an aloe vera mixed with water>>>>> rinse again to prevent aloe from sitting on your hair>>> blot lightly go to moisturizing regimen.
Same as for naturals–use glycerin when the humidity is HIGH and use products with no glycerin when the air is drier– if you seal your ends, try castor oil with few drops of Vitamin E oil (about 40,000 IU) ONLY on ends and no closer than 3 inches to your scalp if you can–do NOT use Vitamin E on your scalp as it can cause alopecia when used on the scalp.
I generally mix up a small amount and dab my fingers in it and lightly stroke the ends of relaxed hair–that is all, then I WIPE MY HANDS to keep from applying any to the scalp area.
This can help to decrease split ends and softens the hair.
for moisturizers–Oyins Honey Dew (if you are protein sensitive) or Oyins Hair hemp if you can use protein– for other moisturizers that I LOVE Nubian Heritage Indian Hemp & Tamanu hair masque BUT I have only used it on natural hair…
Jay–I am leaving the country today and will be gone for a while so probably no internet–please know if you respond to anything I write, I WILL get back to it in about a month. Have a great Valentine’s day and good bye!
Same to you, doll. Have an awesome trip. Please be safe. I look forward to hearing all about your adventures!
oops… forgot to add: if yo use aloe vera and you dont rinse the residual out (with ice cold water) and it ends up stringy–DO NOT try to remedy your hair with just extra moisturizer.
the remaining aloe will still try to bind with your moisturizer because it has water in it–when it combines it may not allow the moisture in the moisturizer to still be in available form to your hair. If you find your hair stringy after aloe or (feeling witchy) rinse your hair AGAIN or cleanse again.
Aloe vera is a TOOL like every other product ingredient–it does not know our personal agendas–it just does what it does–so if you need water held to your head after spritzing, aloe can be your ingredient of choice–if you are not suffering from perennially drying hair (and have no porosity issues) aloe may not be what you need unless it is very dry outside.
On a very hot day, in scorching sun I will apply water to my hair then aloe to help shield it from the sun–but I still may have a scarf on. I also have natural hair so it does not work the same in my case as it does with chemically altered hair.
Another thing to watch out for are any product ingredients that end in “ol” this means there is an alcohol in use. Most alcohols are drying–a few exceptions like panthenol are not.
Finally, know that just because a product is natural, does NOT mean it is good for your hair or safe. Most synthetic ingredients are copying natural plant active ingredients but they only copy what they think is the main ingredient they FAIL to also copy those micronutrients in the plant which also are there for a reason.
I say this because many people will go “all natural” thinking if it is natural, it must be ok. Of course it is not. Ingredients do what they do–all actions in any plant or animal or water or air are all CHEMICAL in nature so if they react to each other or to your hair, or to other products, then they will do this no matter if they are natural or man made–UNLESS within the natural substance are phyto or micro nutrients which slow or inhibit a reaction.
Often, due to the nature of chemically treated hair, silicone based products are just fine, because they take the place of cuticles that were damaged and hold moisture inside the hair shaft–silicone is meant to mimic cuticle action, producing shine or helping to hold in moisture–there is nothing wrong with that.
The best advice is USE WHAT WORKS–there is no point in just seeking natural products for their own sake or using a product like aloe vera because it is just like cooking:
I can give you my recipe for a good peach cobbler–but if you start substituting ingredients , it is not going to taste like mine or if you change from peaches to apples or cherries, it is not going to need the same spices to taste good. It MIGHT be okay–it might not–this is why journaling is so important and most people do not want to take the time to journal about their hair.
to help me with my journaling, I made a table so that I could check mark some stuff, say yes or no to other stuff, draw a line to other stuff and keep it moving. (ain’t nobody got time to write their entire life down everyday) have a good month!
This has been so helpful and so confusing at the same time. I didn’t know follicles could sleep and slack off like that. I’ll definitely try this before going to the market and buying some Biotin!
Tiff:
Biotin strengthens hair, this allows it to stay on your. Head longer so it appears to “grow” hair. There is no reason you cant use a volumizer or onion juice. AND also take biotin.
To our bodies, hair is NOT for ornamentation or to look good. Hair is to protect body parts and help to regulate temperatures.
This is a very interesting subject. One of the most important things to remember is that hair has to get in line when it comes to vitamins, nutrition, herbs and other internal products.
Biotin is a vitamin that along with other B complex vitamins helps to repair tissue, and cell walls an helps develop hemoglobin or the blood..
Since this is true… The “secret” to using biotin or sulfur or hairfinity or niacin or iron or any other vitamin is good nutrition.
If you take biotin or any other vitamin but your body needs them elsewhere, your body will take the vitamins taken for hair and maybe use them to repair cells or connective tissue instead.
If you want thicker hair, i would suggest eating healthy, using onion juice or garlic hair products, drinking lots of water. AND making sure my nutrition is on point.. AFTER THAT.. Why not take biotin or sulfur or b complex vitamins?
INSIDE HEALTH FIRST
Wow, I never really knew hair was so complicated. And well products cling to my hair. So what kind of porosity does that give me?
Good question…just because it clings, doesn’t mean it’s penetrating. If your hair feels hydrated and moisturized, I’d say normal to high porosity. If your hair feels dry, then it may be low porosity. Do you feel your hair is healthy & thriving?
I agree with Jay. products clinging has more to do with ionic charge than the porosity of your hair. like magnets, opposites attract, so if your hair has a negative charge it can be drawn to products with a positive charge and vice versa. Hair IS complicated which is why there is :
A cosmetology school for those who want to learn how to manipulate hair
B. degrees of scientific specialization like Trichology which is the study of hair
C. medical degrees like Dermatology which is the study of diseases of the skin, nails and hair.
This is because there is a discipline not really covered in cosmetology and not covered as indepth in trichology: CHEMISTRY–this is the building block of all things whether living or dead.
Often, for a degree, you have the field you wish to learn and understand and master BUT before that field is another which you have to understand so that your interests have a strong foundation and make sense–for most scientific disciplines, that is Physics, Biology and Chemistry–from there, you can become a hair scientist, a doctor, a microbiologist or virologist and many , many other things.
For most people , you do not need to understand chemistry to find out how porous your hair is–you just have to have a nice glass of warm tap water and a few strands of your cleaned, hair–no oils, no recent protein treatments, no conditioner or anything else–just CLEAN And CLARIFIED hair.
1. Fill a glass with warm water to the top of the glass
2. take a few strands of your hair and plop them in the glass of water.
3. push down gently so the hair is submerged–do not try to sink the hair to the bottom, just push gently until it floats just below the water surface
4. OBSERVE where the hair is.
A. is it near the top, still floating just below the surface? This would be low porosity hair because the more water hair absorbs obviously the more porous it is
B. floats near the middle or goes down a bit more than the top? Probably medium porosity hair–this is optimal
C. Floats near the bottom? High porosity hair–this means the hair is open so much that water just goes right in and after it is in, the hair is so heavy it sinks to the bottom like an oversaturated sponge
Once you know your porosity you can learn what types of products work best on your hair, and what types of techniques are the best and when/how you should apply them.
Low porosity hair has a hard time absorbing products–usually low porosity hair is either hair that is virgin (no chemicals in t) or hair that has a very high protein content due to natural things or to using too much protein in products OR to having a lot of protein treatments.
Low porosity is not really a good thing–it has its own challenges–you have to open the hair up to get product INTO the hair shaft where it is needed, otherwise the products just sit on the hair, cannot penetrate and your hair may not get moisture or products it needs to be healthy.
Low porosity hair often requires techniques such as pre poos and pre conditioning with heat caps to help the heat open up the hair’s cuticles to let product in.
Medium porosity hair is what we all want to strive for–this hair is not too closed up (like low porosity hair) or too open (like high porosity hair) it is hair that can open up and absorb nutrients and product and water and then close back to hold that good stuff in.
High porosity hair is damaged hair–there are HOLES in the hair cuticle which are open so wide water or other products easily penetrate BUT nothing can keep them there because of the holes so the same stuff that easily gets in , just as easily goes back out
both high and low porosity hair is prone to breakage because neither can retain products inside the hair shaft without some specific help.
High porosity hair must be sealed or temporarily repaired with protein treatments or reconstructors OR with henna. In either case, the treatments form a coating along the hair cuticle to help it retain products and moisture–you have to be careful though–because too little and it does no good, and too much and you end up with a coating that starves the hair because the products and water cannot get into the hair anymore (in other words if you use too much protein you can create low porosity hair)
Porous means how many openings or holes there are so stuff can penetrate.
No matter what type of hair–we want product to get into the hair shaft, and stay there and we want to seal up or close cuticles to help keep the good products and water in–HOW you do this and which products you use depends on your porosity– how much product you use depends on your hair density , and the types of products you can use to enhance or decrease hair characteristics depends on your hair texture.
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